Cultivate kiwis: The 3 biggest mistakes

 Under ideal conditions, kiwis also thrive in our gardens. However, to ensure that there are also exotic fruits to be harvested, a few basic points must be observed when growing kiwis.

Cultivate kiwis: The 3 biggest mistakes
The large hairy kiwi (Actinidia deliciosa) is one of the best known kiwi species

kiwis are creepers, whose furry fruits add an exotic flair to the garden. 

In addition to a green thumb, patience is an advantage when growing them: 

it often takes three to five years before you can harvest many of your own kiwis for the first time. 

But if only small fruits develop then - or if they even fail to develop at all - the disappointment is great. 

To ensure that your gardening work bears fruit - in the truest sense of the word - 

you should avoid a few mistakes when growing kiwis. 

We will tell you which ones they are!

Mistake 1: No male plant planted as pollinator

Are you waiting in vain for your kiwi to bear fruit? 

This could be because the male plant is missing as a pollinator. 

Kiwis are dioecious, which means that a plant bears either purely male or purely female flowers. 

The fruits develop from the female flowers. 

However, only if you have also placed a male plant in your garden, whose flowers are essential for pollination. 

The male kiwi should not be placed further than four meters away from the female plant. 

In the meantime, there are also varieties available that carry 

both male and female flowers and are basically self-pollinating. 

But even in this case, it has proven to be a good idea to plant two kiwis to increase the fruit set. 

If the insects are still missing when the wheel-shaped flowers open between June and July, 

the experienced hobby gardener can step in and do the pollination.

Cultivate kiwis: The 3 biggest mistakes

Kiwi: Popular Exotic

The kiwi has long since established itself in the garden in this country as well. We give tips from planting to care and harvesting. Read more

Mistake 2: No cut

For a rich harvest, cutting the kiwi is also very important. 

If left to grow undisturbed, the plants become very dense and only grow small fruits. 

While there is little pruning in the first few years, 

you should prune your kiwi regularly - twice a year - from about the third year after planting. 

In August, cut back the annual fruit shoots by about a third. 

Six to eight leaves should then still be on the shoot. 

Pruning has a positive effect on fruit ripeness. 

The second time you should use scissors in early spring: 

remove the branches with removed fruit wood. 

Shoots that have borne fruit once will no longer produce flowers. 

Leave a long, young shoot that has not yet borne fruit. 

To ensure that new fruit shoots get enough sunlight, the plant should be further thinned out. 

This includes removing the shoots that protrude beyond the trellis. 

If your kiwi is growing in a pot, it is best to shorten shoots that are too long. 

In any case, do not cut the kiwi too late in the spring, otherwise it will bleed a lot.
Cultivate kiwis: The 3 biggest mistakes

How to cut kiwi properly

Kiwis can also be cultivated successfully in domestic gardens. To ensure a rich harvest, you should cut your kiwi regularly. This is the way to do it. Read more

Mistake 3: No frost protection in cold regions

Don't you live in a wine-growing region and can enjoy extremely mild winters? 

Then you should not forget to protect your kiwi sufficiently from frost so that it continues to thrive. 

In the winter sun, the shoots easily get frost cracks and the shoots are also at risk of late frost. 

There are hardy varieties, but in harsh areas the plants can be damaged. 

Therefore, you should prevent this with an appropriate winter protection: 

Cover or mulch the root area high with autumn leaves and shade the shoots with a fleece. 

Kiwis in pots are best kept in a cool, frost-free and bright place in the house during the winter. 

Less sensitive to frost are the so-called mini kiwis, the small relatives of the large and hairy kiwis. 

Depending on the variety and type of origin, they can survive frost down to minus 35 degrees Celsius.

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