Weeds in the garden? It's easy to flirt with a weedkiller.
It removes the weeds, but it is not allowed everywhere and is also soil polluting.
But even stubborn weeds can be controlled without poison! We will tell you how.
from cotyledon to full-grown pest in a few days - no problem for weeds.
Those who do not remove the weeds quickly will literally experience their green miracle.
Since the use of poison is no longer a solution for most people, amateur gardeners are desperately looking for alternative methods to remove weeds.
Yet weeds are actually just a plant that simply grows in the wrong place at the wrong time.
However, many people still find weeds annoying, because they seem to be indestructible,
spread everywhere and even survive periods of heat like a roly-poly.
The garden plants have no chance against such a growth force, the weeds suck the nutrients from the soil,
take away the water from others or overgrow the neighbouring plants completely.
Strategies against weeds - without poison
Everything has to go: so that chickweed, French weed and co.
don't even feel at home, you should act at the first sign of trouble and then, above all, stay on the ball continuously.
Once weeds have made it to seed maturity or to fully-grown root weeds, they go into mass production.
Then strategies are required: weeds can be removed mechanically or thermally without poison.
How can weeds be prevented?
Unfortunately, you cannot prevent weeds one hundred percent, but you can make it as difficult as possible.
Areas with open soil are particularly at risk and from the point of view of the weed seeds, perfect runways.
But just put a lid on it and you're done? Well, not quite. A thick layer of mulch offers a certain protection, but not permanently.
Mulch films are durable, but not practical everywhere.
They actually only work well under paths and gravel beds - against root weeds.
In the bed they are covered with soil because of their appearance and weed seeds germinate anyway.
In the bed, the films also hinder watering, fertilizing and soil cultivation.
A mulch layer in the bed brings short-term success, but does not retain any root weeds remaining in the soil.
However, germinating weeds can easily be pulled out of the loose mulch.
In the long run, densely growing ground cover plants such as evergreen (Vinca), cranesbill (Geranium) or pachyderm (Pachysander) are effective.
In a moment: Weed removal without poison
Weeds can be removed mechanically using tools such as a hoe, weeding knife or joint scraper.
Heat is also effective: simply run a thermal tool over the weeds or pour boiling water over them. The result: the weeds are absorbed and can be removed.
Weeds in the lawn can also be controlled by fertilizing.
lawns, a dense, healthy turf is the best protection against weed seeds.
Mechanical weed removal
Weeding is the most unpopular, but also the most effective method of permanently removing weeds.
But only with the right tools will it not become a drudgery.
hoe and cultivator
Cultivators look like mini harrows from the farmer's side and loosen the top layer of soil - you can then simply collect the weeds.
Hoes, on the other hand, have sharp blades and cut off weeds close to the ground or also loosen the upper layers of soil and pull weeds out of the ground.
The tools are available with long handles, but also as hand hoes.
In dry weather they can simply be left to lie and dry out, otherwise they will end up in the organic waste bin.
In perennial beds, narrow hoes have proved to be a good solution.
They are available as planting hand hoes in the shops and can also be used to tackle weeds between closely spaced perennials.
Chopping only works on seed weeds and young root weeds.
Fully-grown root weeds can still be propagated with the hoe if the rhizome remains are broken up and small pieces remain in the soil.
The root weeds must be dug up a little before they can be pulled out of the loosened soil together with the root.
Tip: Frequent digging or hoeing not only makes life difficult for weeds, it also saves every second or third watering.
The hoes cut hair-thin tubes in the soil, which otherwise lead the water from deeper soil layers upwards, where it evaporates unused.
Aegopodium podagraria - what sounds so harmless with its botanical name is one of the most annoying weeds of all: goutweed.
Its roots run through the soil like a ball of wool, wrapping themselves around perennial roots, and every little piece of it sprouts anew.
Simply pulling them out doesn't work, the weeds simply sprout again.
In the perennial bed, goutweed is particularly annoying when it squeezes between the plants and seems to grow inseparably with them.
The only thing that helps is digging: Loosen the soil spade-deep with the digging fork, shake the soil through the tines and collect all the yeger shrubs.
In autumn, dig up perennials and scrape the yeger shrub from the roots.
Weedkiller
Weed cutters penetrate deep into the soil with long tines or blades and cut out dandelions completely.
You don't even have to bend down for tools with long handles.
This convenient and effective method works best for weeds with leaf rosettes, but not at all for root weeds.
Joint scraper
The devices remove weeds from the joints of paved surfaces with narrow blades or robust wire brushes.
Joint scrapers are also available with long handles, so that the work can be done standing up.
weed killing with heat
Either with gas or 230 volts: thermal devices are slowly guided over the weeds, which they heat up to 1,000 degrees Celsius in joints, but also in the bed.
No cell structure survives this, the weeds die. However, the heat shock does not reach the roots, so that the plants often sprout again after one or two weeks.
Nevertheless, this is a convenient, time-saving method, and on paved surfaces, apart from joint scrapers, it is the only method that needs to be used more often.
By the way, boiling water has the same effect and reaches a little deeper than the heat shock.
Removing weeds without poison: fertiliser helps
Yes, this is a serious point. Fertiliser can control weeds - namely in the lawn.
This is especially true for controlling clover in the lawn.
Because as a so-called nitrogen collector, it is not really very dependent on nutrients from the soil.
Thanks to special bacteria at its roots, clover can supply itself with nitrogen from the air.
If the lawn is made fit by fertilising it and left standing for a good four centimetres, the vital stalks will drive the clover out of the lawn.
This also applies to the other lawn weeds. This is a convenient method that is a side effect of lawn fertilization.
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