Gardening: Raising and cutting vines correctly
Contents
A grapevine looks good in any garden - even if the climate is not ideal. If you cut the climbing shrubs correctly, you can still have a good harvest.
vines are becoming more and more popular as garden plants,
as there are now also table grapes that produce good yields in warm, protected
locations outside the wine-growing regions.
However, many hobby gardeners do not know how to cut the berry bushes correctly.
In contrast to most other berry bushes, vines bear their flowers and fruits exclusively on the new shoots.
In viticulture, the plants are pulled on wire trellises and cut back vigorously in winter.
One leaves only one or two of the strongest shoots of last year, a one meter long shoot and fixes it to the wire in a bow shape.
The new fruit shoots develop from the sleeping eyes in the course of the season.
Although the strong pruning reduces the yield,
it improves the quality of the grapes: they are particularly large because the shrub
only has to feed a few of them.
In addition, during the summer some of the fruit shoots are cut back to further
increase the size and sugar content of the remaining grapes.
Raising vines on a trellis
In principle, there is nothing to be said against pruning the table vines in the
hobby garden in exactly the same way as in professional viticulture,
but here, of course, visual criteria also play a role - for example,
because the vines are supposed to green part of the house facade or the free-standing trellis.
Therefore, depending on the trellis or trellis frame, one to three long guiding
shoots are pulled horizontally along the climbing aid to the right and left of the vine.
Guide two main shoots horizontally along each tension wire and remove all side branches in winter (left). Until summer new fruit shoots are formed (right). All unfavorably placed shoots between the tension wires are also cut off in summer.
Winter pruning for vines
Cut back the removed rods to one or two eyes each year in autumn or late winter.
In spring new shoots develop from the eyes.
You can either leave two of them or break out the weaker one in spring in an unwooded state.
Often there are more new shoots on the astring, but these must always be removed.
They would otherwise take water and nutrients from the fruit shoots.
MSG/Sylvia Bespaluk At the nodes of the main shoots the fruit shoots for the new season are formed in spring. Leave only the strongest ones and remove the others as long as they are not yet woody
Shorten fruit shoots in summer
The new fruit branches, will be vertically led up the trellis during the summer.
They are gradually attached to the wires or vertical wooden struts with a non-intrusive binding material.
It is important that these shoots get enough light.
Therefore, remove everything that shades the grapes - both the superfluous shoots and disturbing leaves.
The tips of the long new fruit shoots should be cut off in June about behind the fifth leaf above the last bunch of grapes.
Otherwise they will become very long and will also cast unnecessary shade on the grapes.
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