Cut fig tree: This is how the professionals do it

 Fig trees are becoming more and more popular - but very few hobby gardeners know how to cut the exotic fruit trees properly. 

With these instructions you can do it.

the real fig (Ficus carica) is an exotic fruit species, which is becoming more and more 

popular in this country. 

The shrubs can even tolerate a few sub-zero temperatures and in mild regions in 

microclimates can grow in the garden - for example the fig variety 'Violetta', which is 

considered to be particularly robust. 

The best place for the plants is a sunny spot protected from the wind and located on a heat-storing wall. 

The fig usually grows as a multi-stem tree, but is also offered as a single-stem tree. In cooler regions, 

it hardly grows bigger than a shrub, as it freezes back strongly every year.

In order for it to grow healthily, it is important to avoid a few mistakes in fig care. 

Like most fruit trees, you should therefore cut a fig tree regularly. 

The woody plants form their fruits on the previous year's shoots and also on the new shoots. 

However, the latter do not ripen properly in most regions because the growing season is too short.

Nevertheless, it is important that you use pruning to encourage the formation of 

strong new shoots for next year's harvest. 

At the same time, the crown must remain airy and loose enough so that the fruits 

on this year's fruit wood can receive plenty of sunlight and ripen optimally.

When to cut a fig tree?

It is best to prune your fig tree in early spring - depending on the region and 

weather conditions from mid-February to early March. 

It is important that no longer long periods of frost are to be expected after pruning.

Remove frozen shoots

First remove all shoots that have frozen to death in winter. 

These can be easily identified by scratching the bark briefly: If the tissue 

underneath is dry and yellowish, the twig is dead.

Cut fig tree: This is how the professionals do it
MSG/Folkert Siemens First remove all frozen shoots

Either cut back the dead wood into the living part or remove 

the corresponding shoot completely. 

If the twig is unfavorably positioned anyway or the crown 

is too dense at this point, it is best to 

cut it off directly at the astring so that no new wood grows back at this point. 

A branch that has only been shortened, 

on the other hand, always sprouts again in several places.

Thinning out the crown of the fig tree

Cut fig tree: This is how the professionals do it
MSG/Folkert Siemens Branches growing inside the crown are cut out

After the deadwood has been removed, take care of all the stronger branches that 

grow inside the crown or are simply too dense. 

They often take the light away from the ripening 

fruits and should therefore also be cut off at the astring. 

As a rule, you will have to use a pruning shears or a branch saw.

Reduce branches at the shoot ends

At the ends of the main shoots, the branches of figs are often very dense, 

so these parts of the branches should all be thinned out. 

Usually you can remove every second to third side shoot.

Cut fig tree: This is how the professionals do itCut fig tree: This is how the professionals do it

At strongly branched places you should reduce the number of page branches (left). The shoot ends of the main lateral branches can also be cut off above a well developed, outward growing lateral shoot (right)

The ends of each main shoot should also be shortened or 

diverted to a side shoot growing outwards. 

Very long side shoots should also be shortened to an outer eye. 

In the end, the fig tree or shrub should not be too dense 

and the remaining fruit shoots from the previous year should be well distributed. 

As with apples, the following applies: The "airier" the crown is, the larger the figs 

become and the better they ripen.

Cut fig tree: This is how the professionals do it
MSG/Folkert Siemens This is what the finished fig looks like

For figs a strong cutback is possible

Very few hobby gardeners know that a fig 

can be cut back very far into the old wood if necessary - if necessary, 

even to just above the ground. 

The plants have a very high deflection capacity and reliably sprout again. 

However, they then have to do without the delicious fruit for one season. 

Strong pruning is only necessary in rare cases - for example, 

young plants with insufficient winter protection that are frozen back to the ground.

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